MarblingBasicsSUPPLYLIST

Back to Alternative Marbling: The Basics

This general marbling list is modified for each class

Marbling Supply List

scissors – paper and fabric

1 permanent black marker, such as “Sharpie” or “Rub-A-Dub” for name marking

cardboard box or plastic tray – an empty liquor box measuring approximately 10”x15” is a good

size and cut down to about 3” in height.

12 or more white plastic trash bags, large enough so the cardboard box/plastic tray fits

easily inside

Any textile paints you have that you’d like to experiment with the marbling techniques we’ll

cover in class

roll of paper towels

one or more 1-2 gallon buckets (as a rinse bucket)

plastic or cafeteria type tray

one 5-gallon bucket (to make marbling size)

one roll of masking tape (partial roll is fine)

1-2” stack of newspapers

Freezer paper (a partial roll is fine)

wear old work clothes, smock or apron and even old shoes

a notebook or journal and your favorite writing and/or drawing tool

Don’t hesitate to write, call or email me if you have any questions about the supply list

Handy List (only if you have it, have room, and/or driving, then bring it)

Elin’s book, Dyes & Paints: A Hand’s On Guide to Coloring Fabric, to use as a resource

Extra buckets, plastic tub or something similar

Rubber and/or disposable gloves if you like protecting your hands

Other size and/or shape of box or photo developing tray to use as marbling tray and bring

appropriate size white plastic bags the box easily fits inside. Contact me before you

purchase a tray for marbling.

Fabric and other stuff to marble

Bring about 10 yards of fabric. Bring a selection of hand-dyed or commercially dyed pastel, dark, or even white, cotton, silk, linen, polyester, nylon, or any blend of fabric to marble (stay away from wool, it’s difficult at best to marble). Base how much fabric you bring (more or less) on your speed, need for variety, and ability to transport. Large amounts of any one fabric are not necessary. You may want to try different types of fabric, some good choices include: cotton lawn, sheeting, twill, broadcloth, sateen, gauze, voile, and duck. If you want to marble silk, look for crepe de chine, shantung, pongee, dupionni, chiffon, organza, gazar, taffeta and china or habutae silk. Other options include canvas or leather sneakers, gloves, baseball caps, wood and paper. When choosing paper, choose a crisp paper. Remember, you can marble almost anything and if it is absorbent it can be marbled!

Fabric prep

Your fabric MUST be properly washed for long lasting results. Wash your fabric (yes, even PFD or PFP fabric) in the machine, or by hand, with hot water and a heavy duty laundry detergent. Hang to air dry or dry in the clothes drier. DO NOT use any fabric softener in the washer OR drier sheets in the clothes drier.

Test fabric for absorption by dropping one drop of water on your washed and dried fabric. If it is absorbed immediately and without hesitation, then go ahead and soak in the alum soak. If the water beads up then wash again in hot water with a heavy duty laundry detergent. If you are asking the question, is there any hesitation? Wash it again.

Alum soak will be mixed up and ready to use for the entire week of class, so you will have an opportunity to soak and prepare fabric during class time.

ALUM SOAK: Purchase alum from any dye supplier that has alum for marbling – please give me a call if you have any questions. Follow the directions that come with the alum for the proper proportions for soaking.

Procedure: While wearing rubber gloves, add the washed and dried fabric to the alum soak. Stir the fabric intermittently for 10 to 15 minutes. Make sure the fabric is completely submerged and can move freely. Don’t cram it. If you have lots of fabric to soak, do it in batches, making sure all the fabric in each batch can “swim freely”.

While wearing rubber gloves, remove the fabric and wring out excess alum soak solution, allowing alum soak to run back into the container for future use. DO NOT RINSE! Hang the fabric so it is completely flat on a clothes line to dry and make sure it is not folded back on itself or folded in half on the clothesline. DO NOT use a clothes dryer to dry Alum soaked fabric.

Press with a cool-ish iron to remove any creases. It does need to be hot enough to remove the creases, but DO NOT press with a very hot iron.

Discard Alum Soak after 2 to 3 months or if Alum has crystallized around the edges of the soaking bucket. Do not store Alum Soaked cotton fabric for longer than 2 to 3 weeks before marbling, because the alum disintegrates cotton fibers.

Elin Noble call with any questions 508-287-6258 elin.noble@verizon.net www.ElinNoble.com